Today, as climate change accelerates extreme weather, understanding Pulborough’s flood history is essential for planning its future.

Flooding is part of Pulborough’s landscape—but with informed residents, maintained watercourses, and coordinated community action, its impact can be reduced.

Why Pulborough Floods

Pulborough lies just below the confluence of the River Arun and the River Rother, at the point where the Arun becomes tidal. This creates a “flashy river with a long tidal tail,” meaning:

• Rainfall runs quickly off Wealden clay, causing rapid rises in river levels.
• Tidal surges push inland up to 41 km, locking the river and preventing water from draining away.
• High spring tides + heavy rainfall can cause simultaneous river and tidal flooding.

This combination makes Pulborough, Amberley, and Arundel among the most flood‑prone communities in West Sussex.

Timeline of Significant Flood Events in Pulborough

1938 – The First Major Flood Alleviation Scheme Proposed

The West Sussex Water Board proposed embankments to protect agricultural land and reduce winter flooding. The scheme was delayed for decades.

September 1968 – Catastrophic Floods

Completion of the long‑delayed embankments coincided with one of the worst floods in Pulborough’s history.

• Water overtopped the new embankments by 0.6 metres.
• Homes north of the Arun were severely flooded. Residents later argued Pulborough had never flooded before this event.

1970–Present – Repeated Overtopping

Since 1970, the embankments have been overtopped five times, reinforcing concerns that agricultural protection worsened urban flooding.

June 2012 – Countywide Flood Event

Heavy rainfall across West Sussex caused widespread surface water flooding. Pulborough was part of a cluster of affected communities, prompting new drainage works and investigations.

December 2013 – Record River Levels

The River Arun reached 4.78 m at Pulborough, the highest level ever recorded.

Winter 2023–24 – Highway Flooding on West Chiltington Road

Heavy rainfall caused significant highway flooding near Mill Cottage, damaging the road and prompting a formal investigation by West Sussex County Council.

2026 – Current Status

As of September 2026, river levels at Pulborough Swan Bridge are within normal range, with no active flood warnings.

Stories & Local Accounts

“We watched the water rise over the embankment…” – 1968 Resident

Residents recall the shock of the 1968 floods, describing water pouring over the newly built embankments and flooding homes that had never previously been at risk.

Farmers vs Residents – A Longstanding Tension

Local opinion has often held that flood schemes prioritised farmland over homes, especially after repeated overtopping events post‑1970.

2023–24: Road Damage and Disruption

West Chiltington Road residents reported days of impassable roads, damaged verges, and concerns about riparian responsibilities. The County Council’s investigation highlighted both drainage failures and landowner obligations.

The Financial Cost of Flooding

Flooding in Pulborough has generated costs across several categories:

• Infrastructure repairs – Road damage, drainage jetting, culvert maintenance, and embankment reinforcement.
• Property damage – Particularly in 1968 and subsequent overtopping events.
• Agricultural losses – Historically significant enough to drive early flood alleviation schemes.
• Countywide flood management programmes – Including Operation Watershed and drainage works following the 2012 floods.

While precise Pulborough‑specific totals are not published, West Sussex’s flood management programmes run into millions of pounds annually, with Pulborough consistently identified as a high‑risk area requiring ongoing investment.

Causes of Flooding: Natural & Human Factors

• Natural Causes
• Rapid runoff from Wealden clay soils.
• Tidal lock preventing river drainage.
• High spring tides and storm surges.
• Increasingly intense rainfall events.
• Human Factors
• Historic embankment design prioritising farmland.
• Development pressure along the floodplain.
• Riparian landowner responsibilities not always met (e.g., blocked ditches, unmanaged culverts).

Climate Change: What It Means for Pulborough

Climate projections for the Arun valley indicate:

• Higher winter rainfall → more frequent river flooding.
• More intense storms → flash flooding and drainage system overload.
• Sea level rise → increased tidal surges reaching Pulborough.
• Flood Zone expansion → Environment Agency models show larger areas at risk by 2070–2125.

Pulborough’s position at the tidal limit makes it especially vulnerable to combined river‑and‑tide events—expected to become more common.

What Residents Can Expect in the Future

1. More Frequent Flood Alerts

Although 2026 levels are normal, long‑term trends point toward more regular warnings.

2. Continued Infrastructure Works

Expect ongoing drainage improvements, culvert upgrades, and Operation Watershed projects across the parish.

3. Greater Emphasis on Riparian Responsibilities

Landowners will face stricter enforcement to maintain ditches, culverts, and watercourses.

4. Planning Restrictions

New developments will require robust flood risk assessments, especially near the river.

5. Community Preparedness

Flood plans, sandbag stations, and community resilience groups will become increasingly important.

Conclusion

Pulborough’s flood history is a story of geography, infrastructure, and community resilience. From the catastrophic 1968 floods to today’s climate‑driven challenges, the village has continually adapted. As weather patterns intensify, Pulborough’s future will depend on:

• Strong local governance
• Continued investment in flood resilience
• Active participation from residents and landowners
• Transparent communication between authorities and the community

Flooding may be part of Pulborough’s past—but with planning, collaboration, and innovation, it does not have to define its future.

Explainer: Riparian Responsibilities

Pulborough’s rivers, ditches, culverts and streams form a complex network that protects homes, roads and farmland from flooding. But many residents are surprised to learn that much of this system is not maintained by councils—it is legally the responsibility of local landowners. These duties are known as riparian responsibilities.

What Is a Riparian Landowner?

You are a riparian landowner if:

• A watercourse runs through your property
• A watercourse forms the boundary of your property
• A ditch, culvert or stream sits on land you own or manage

This applies whether the watercourse is natural, man‑made, open, or piped.

Your Legal Duties (In Plain English)

1. Keep Water Flowing

You must ensure water can flow freely by:

• Clearing vegetation, silt, debris and litter
• Removing fallen trees or branches
• Ensuring banks are stable and not collapsing

2. Maintain Culverts and Pipes

If a culvert is on your land, you must:

• Keep it clear
• Repair damage
• Prevent blockages that could cause upstream flooding

3. Prevent Flooding and Erosion

You must not:

• Obstruct the watercourse
• Build structures that narrow or block flow
• Redirect water in a way that harms neighbours

4. Allow Access for Inspection

Authorities may need access to check flood risk or drainage issues.

Who Does What?

Understanding responsibilities helps avoid confusion during flood events:

• Riparian landowners – Maintain watercourses, ditches, culverts
• West Sussex County Council – Highways drainage, road flooding
• Environment Agency – Main rivers (e.g., River Arun)
• Horsham District Council – Planning, enforcement, environmental health
• Pulborough Parish Council – Community liaison, reporting, resilience support, maintains watercourses, ditches, culverts on parish council owned land

Why It Matters in Pulborough

Pulborough’s flood risk is heavily influenced by:

• Blocked ditches along rural lanes
• Unmaintained culverts on private land
• Overgrown watercourses reducing flow
• Tidal lock causing water to back up when drainage is already compromised

When riparian duties aren’t met, flooding worsens for everyone—including neighbours, farms, and highways.

• Common Misunderstandings
• “The council maintains all ditches.” → Incorrect
• “If the ditch is on the boundary, it’s not mine.” → Often still yours
• “I don’t use the land, so I’m not responsible.” → You still are
• “It hasn’t flooded before, so it’s fine.” → Climate change says otherwise

Practical Checklist for Pulborough Residents

• Inspect ditches twice a year
• Clear vegetation before winter
• Check culverts after heavy rain
• Report issues on main rivers to the Environment Agency
• Work with neighbours—watercourses rarely affect just one property

For more information: Owning a watercourse - GOV.UK

Explainer: Pulborough Community Flood Preparedness Guide

Flooding in Pulborough is a recurring challenge, shaped by the River Arun’s tidal reach, heavy rainfall, and climate‑driven extremes. This guide helps residents prepare, respond, and recover effectively.

Know Your Local Flood Risks

Pulborough faces three main types of flooding:

• River flooding – Arun and Rother overflow
• Tidal flooding – High tides lock the river
• Surface water flooding – Heavy rainfall overwhelms drains.

Report road flooding or an overflowing gully to West Sussex County Council

Floods on roads and roadsides, including blocked gullies, damaged manhole covers, ditches and streams, should be reported to West Sussex County Council. You can do this online or call 01243 642105

High‑risk areas include: Lower St, Swan Bridge, Rivermead, Pulborough Brooks, West Chiltington Road, and low‑lying rural lanes.

Stay Informed

Sign up or look out for:

• Environment Agency Flood Alerts
• WSCC Travel & Road Closure Updates
• Pulborough Parish Council emergency posts on social media
• Check Pulborough Parish Council’s Resilience Plan for guidance and emergency contacts for a range of issues including flooding

Build Your Household Flood Kit

Every home in a flood‑risk area should have:

• Waterproof document folder
• Torch + spare batteries
• First aid kit
• Phone power bank
• Bottled water
• Essential medication
• Warm clothing
• Copies of insurance documents
• List of emergency contacts

Protect Your Property

Before Flood Season

• Install non‑return valves on drains
• Check gutters and downpipes
• Move valuables upstairs
• Keep sandbags or flood boards ready
• Ensure culverts and ditches on your land are clear
• During a Flood Warning
• Move cars to higher ground
• Turn off gas, electricity and water if instructed
• Keep pets indoors
• Avoid walking or driving through floodwater

After Flooding

• Photograph damage for insurance
• Ventilate and dry affected rooms
• Disinfect surfaces
• Check electrical systems before use

Community Resilience

Pulborough benefits from strong community networks. Residents can:

• Help check on vulnerable neighbours
• Share real‑time updates with the community via social media

Travel & Safety

Floodwater on rural roads is dangerous. Remember:

• 30 cm of water can move a car
• Hidden potholes and debris cause accidents
• Contaminated water poses health risks
• Travel with extreme care along West Chiltington Road, Lower St and river‑adjacent lanes during heavy rainfall.

Climate Change: Preparing for the Future

Pulborough will likely see:

• More frequent flood alerts
• Higher winter rainfall
• Increased tidal surges
• Greater pressure on drainage systems
• Long‑term resilience will require:
• Better riparian compliance
• Continued Operation Watershed investment
• Stronger planning controls
• Community‑led preparedness

As you walk around Pulborough, the bells of St Mary’s can regularly be heard ringing out. They are Pulborough’s oldest public voice, still speaking clearly across the Arun Valley. The bells have a fascinating story chiming over many centuries and form an important part of Pulborough’s history.

The bells of St Mary’s are more than instruments — they are living artefacts, each carrying the mark of its maker, its era, and the community that has cared for them.

From the Purdues of the 17th century to the Taylor foundry of today, Pulborough’s bells form a continuous thread of sound linking generations of villagers across four centuries.

Why the Bells Matter

• The bells are more than heritage objects — they are active cultural assets:
• They mark Sunday worship, weddings, funerals, and national events.
• They connect Pulborough to centuries of English ringing tradition.
• They preserve the craftsmanship of founders whose work is now rare or extinct.
• They provide a shared soundscape that has shaped village life for generations.

400 Years

St Mary’s Church holds one of the most historically varied and technically fascinating rings of bells in West Sussex, spanning nearly 400 years of English bellfounding. The peal tells a story of medieval worship, Victorian expansion, twentieth‑century restoration, and modern craftsmanship — all still heard across the Arun Valley today.

Ages and Origins: A Peal Across the Centuries

St Mary’s has eight tower bells, ranging in date from 1636 to 2012, plus several historic school bells preserved in the ringing chamber.

• 1636 – Bryan II Eldridge - The oldest bell originally in the ring, cast by the Eldridge family of Chertsey. By 2005 it could no longer be tuned to match the rest of the peal, so it was retained as a Service Ringing Bell and fitted with an electro‑magnetic hammer.
• 1665 – William III & Roger II Purdue - The tenor bell, the heaviest and deepest‑voiced, dates from 1665. It retains its original canons and is mounted in a canon‑retaining headstock — a rare survival.
• 1754 – Lester & Pack - A mid‑Georgian bell from one of London’s major foundries of the era.
• 19th century additions (1858, 1876, 1897) Bells by Charles & George Mears, John Warner & Sons, and John Taylor & Co reflect Victorian investment in church music and the national revival of change‑ringing. Three of the lighter bells were added in 1898 to mark Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee.
• 20th century – 1928 (Mears & Stainbank) - Another bell from the Whitechapel foundry lineage, now preserved in the ringing chamber.
• 21st century – 2005 & 2012 (Taylors, Eayre & Smith / John Taylor & Co) - Modern bells were added during the major 2005 overhaul, including a new bell replacing the 1636 Eldridge bell in the main peal. A further Taylor bell was cast in 2012.

Significant Changes and Restorations

St Mary’s bells have undergone several major interventions:

• 1897 – Installation of the cast‑iron H‑frame: The current bell frame, made at the Loughborough foundry, was installed to support the Victorian expansion of the ring.
• 2005 – Full refurbishment and tuning: John Taylor & Co carried out a major overhaul:
  • bells were tuned,
  • new steel headstocks fitted,
  • wheels replaced,
  • the Eldridge bell reassigned as a service bell. This work brought the ring into modern ringing standards while preserving historic fabric.
• 2006 – Clock mechanism modernised: The historic John Bennett clock (c.1857–63) received electric winding motors, replacing the weekly manual winding of its heavy weights.

What the Bells Are Made Of?

All tower bells at St Mary’s are cast bronze, traditionally a mix of copper and tin known as bell metal. This alloy produces the resonance required for change‑ringing and has been used consistently across centuries of English bellfounding. The frame is cast iron (1897) with steel girders, and modern fittings use steel headstocks.

Who Made the Bells?

St Mary’s bells represent an extraordinary cross‑section of English founders:

• Bryan II Eldridge (1636) – Chertsey
• William III & Roger II Purdue (1665) – Somerset bellfounders
• Lester & Pack (1754) – London
• Charles & George Mears (1858) – Whitechapel
• John Warner & Sons (1876) – London
• John Taylor & Co (1897, 2012) – Loughborough
• Taylors, Eayre & Smith (2005) – Loughborough (restoration and new casting)
• Mears & Stainbank (1928) – Whitechapel

Where the Bells Came From?

Most bells were cast specifically for St Mary’s, but several have notable origins:

• School bells from Nutbourne, North Heath, and Pulborough These were salvaged when the old school buildings closed and are now preserved in the ringing chamber. Their turrets can still be seen on the former school buildings.
• The 2005 replacement bell - Cast at Loughborough to replace the Eldridge bell in the main ring.
• The 1897 frame - Manufactured at the Loughborough foundry and transported to Pulborough for installation.

The Bells Today

St Mary’s bells are rung:

• Every Sunday morning,
• Monday evening practices,
• For weddings, civic occasions, and national events.

The ring is known for its rich tone, shaped by centuries of craftsmanship and the careful 2005 tuning.

Get Involved

Have you ever wanted to try your hand at bellringing?

St Mary's Bell ringers are always pleased to welcome beginners or experienced ringers. 

Practice night is Monday 7.30pm to 9pm

Please contact the Tower Captain, Lucinda Barton on 07742 449160

References for information included in these articles:

Primary Sources (Direct, Authoritative Records)

• St Mary’s Church Pulborough – Tower Records & Belfry Log internal documents held by the church, including inscriptions, maintenance logs, and restoration notes.
• Bell Inscriptions (physical evidence) Each bell carries founder marks, dates, and inscriptions that confirm origin, maker, and age.
• John Taylor & Co (Loughborough) – Restoration Reports (2005, 2012) Technical documentation from the foundry responsible for the modern overhaul and new castings.
• Whitechapel Bell Foundry Archives Records relating to bells cast by Mears, Mears & Stainbank, and Lester & Pack.
• Churchwardens’ Accounts (historic) Parish financial records often include payments to founders for casting, transport, or installation.

Secondary Sources (Published Histories & Expert Compilations)

• Dove’s Guide for Church Bell Ringers The national database of bell towers, giving technical details of the ring at St Mary’s.
• Sussex County Association of Change Ringers (SCACR) Regional ringing society with historical notes, tower profiles, and restoration summaries.
• “The Church Bells of Sussex” – A.J. Ebsworth (classic reference) A detailed survey of Sussex bells, founders, and inscriptions.

Local History Publications

• Pulborough Parish historical booklets
• Heritage leaflets produced for St Mary’s
• Pulborough Society archives

Archival & Heritage Repositories

• West Sussex Record Office (WSRO) Holds parish records, faculty papers, and historic correspondence relating to church fabric.
• The National Archives (TNA) Contains documents from bellfounders, ecclesiastical authorities, and Victorian restoration projects.
• British Newspaper Archive Reports on bell installations, Jubilee additions, and restoration fundraising.

Technical & Craft Sources

• Bellfounders’ Catalogues and Ledgers
• Eldridge family (Chertsey)
• Purdue family (Somerset)
• John Warner & Sons (London)
• John Taylor & Co (Loughborough)
• Churchcare / CCC Guidelines on Bell Restoration Context for how the 2005 restoration would have been conducted.

Local Provenance Sources

Historic School Bells (Nutbourne, North Heath, Pulborough) Provenance confirmed through:

• school logbooks,
• building plans,
• oral histories,
• turret architecture still visible on former school buildings.

Online Databases & Digital Sources

• Dove’s Guide (online) – technical bell data
• SCACR Tower Pages – local ringing history
• A Church Near You – basic church profile
• British Listed Buildings – architectural context for St Mary’s
• Historic England – listing description for the church

• Dame Maggie Smith: The Harry Potter and Downton Abbey star lived in a 15th-century farmhouse in the area.
• Dame Julie Walters: The award-winning actress also lives in the Pulborough area.
• Harry Enfield: The comedian went to school in the area.
• Percy Bysshe Shelley: The Romantic poet lived at Champions Farm, which was built by his family.
• Harry Price: A renowned "ghostbuster," magician, and author, who lived and died in Pulborough, buried in St Mary's graveyard.
• Charles Frend: A filmmaker and director (e.g., The Cruel Sea) born in Pulborough.
• Ethel Walker & Clara Christian: Artists who lived on Toat Lane in the 1890s.
• Guy Harwood: A notable horse racing trainer. 

Famous Movies shot Locally

It may surprise you to learn that our corner of West Sussex has a bigger filmography than some actors. Here are a few movies you may have seen where scenery may look familiar.

Mary, Queen of Scots - 1971

Mary, Queen of Scots, is a British-American biographical film based on the life of Mary Stuart. Leading an all-star cast are Vanessa Redgrave as the title character and Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth I.

History tells us that Elizabeth and Mary never actually met; but they did in the film! This meeting took place at Fotheringay Castle, which was filmed at Parham House, Storrington.

 A View to a Kill - 1985

A View to a Kill is the 14^th in the James Bond series produced by Eon Productions, and the last to star Roger Moore.

Zorin planned to destroy the Silicon Valley in an earthquake. The abandoned silver mine involved in this ploy wasn't actually in California however, but was in fact the Amberley Working Museum!

The Da Vinci Code - 2006

Shoreham airport, also known as Brighton City airport, played a key role in the 2006 movie. It is featured in the end sequence of the escape from France and acts as 'Le Bourget' airport.

The Da Vinci Code is based on the best-selling novel of the same name and stars huge names such as Tom Hanks, Adurey Tautou and Sir Ian McKellen.

Elizabeth: The Golden Age - 2007

The rolling hills at Petworth appear in a scene where the Queen goes riding with Walter Raleigh (Clive Owen).

There are some startling moments in this Sellar-and-Yeatman retelling of the story of England’s Virgin Queen, Elizabeth I, and her golden years. The story begins in 1585, as Elizabeth (Cate Blanchett) must contend with plots directed by Spain’s Philip II to topple her with a seaborne invasion.

Wonder Woman – 2007

Arundel Castle makes a guest appearance as a German-controlled castle.

Hopes for DC’s plan to deliver a shot of oestrogen to the superhero movie genre are disappointed in a silly plot that enlists Diana of Themyscira, AKA Wonder Woman (Gal Gadot), to help win World War I.

Maleficent - 2014

Also filmed at Petworth Park, which doubles up as Maleficent’s moors in this live-action retelling of the Disney 1959 animated classic, Sleeping Beauty. In addition to the pitch-perfect casting of Angelina Jolie in the title role, the screenplay adds a daring feminist spin to the source material and reveals the elements of the evil fairy’s betrayal that ultimately turn her pure heart to stone.

Mr Turner - 2014

Petworth House and Park appear again, as the home of one of JMW Turner’s greatest patrons – George Wyndham, third Earl of Egremont – and shines in Mike Leigh’s biopic of the great Romantic painter. Timothy Spall gives an admirably warty and unpleasant performance as Turner, an arrogant and uncompromising man who’s annoyed by his celebrity in Britain but shocked when the public turns against his work.

Stan And Ollie – 2014

Worthing Lido plays a starring role in this BBC-funded film which features Sussex-based actor Steve Coogan and John C Reilly as the famous comedy duo as they embark on a music hall tour of the UK in 1953. The two leads excel in his bittersweet film about the twilight years of the great double act.

Source: Wikipedia

A The Golden Pippin is a very old variety of APPLE with an intense fruity flavour also used for cooking and cider. Its origins date back to Sussex and 1629.

B In 1932 BILLY BUTLIN saw an opportunity in Bognor Regis to create a similar amusement park to one he already had in Skegness. He bought land on the corner of Lennox Street and the Esplanade, which had previously been the Olympian Gardens, built his amusement park and called it "Butlin's Recreation Shelter". Earlier, in 1928, he’d secured an exclusive license to sell Dodgem cars in Europe and these were one of the first attractions in the shelter along with one-armed bandits. The following year Butlin opened a zoo on the seafront with a snake pit as its star attraction where Togo the snake king would regularly give shows. For some time the park in Bognor was run by Butlin's mother Bertha Butlin, though she later left to run his park on Hayling Island.

C The well-known story of King CANUTE, attempting to turn back the waves, is said to have taken place at Bosham in West Sussex, where he is thought to have had a palace.

D In 1930 the composer Eric Coates was inspired to write the music for “By the Sleepy Lagoon” (the theme music for BBC radio’s “DESERT ISLAND DISCS”) whilst admiring the view of Bognor Regis beach across the water from the east beach at Selsey.

E In 1974 Brighton hosted the 19th EUROVISON SONG CONTEST. The winning song, performed by the Swedish band ABBA, was “Waterloo”.

F FISHBOURNE Palace near Chichester is the largest single Roman site yet to be unearthed in Britain. It is thought to have been constructed by the Romans for a local ruler called Cogidubnus. It is the largest Roman palace to have been discovered north of the Alps.

G The land on which GATWICK Airport stands was first developed as an aerodrome in the late 1920s. The Air Ministry approved commercial flights from the site in 1933, and the first terminal, "The Beehive", was built in 1935. Scheduled air services from the new terminal began the following year. During the Second World War, the airport was taken over by the military and was known as RAF Gatwick. After the war, the airport returned to its civilian capacity. Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Gatwick was the second-busiest airport by total passenger traffic in the UK, after Heathrow Airport,and was the tenth-busiest airport in Europe

H HARVEY’S Brewery is the oldest independent brewery in Sussex. Founder John Harvey acquired the current Bridge Wharf site in 1838 for the price of £3,100. It consisted of a coal wharf, timber yard and private dwellings. He added coal merchant to his commercial activities and erected a brewhouse in 1839. Still run as a family business, the brewery has been in the guardianship of seven generations of John Harvey's descendants since its establishment in 1790, with five family members from the seventh and eighth generations currently working there.

I The INTERNATIONAL Birdman is a pair of eccentric events held on the West Sussex coast. The competition began in 1971 and involves human 'birdmen' throwing themselves off the end of a pier, attempting to get as far out to sea as possible before striking the water. First held in Selsey it moved to Bognor Regis in 1978. It became so popular that since 2010 Bognor Regis and Worthing have both held Birdman competitions, forming the International Birdman Series. Most competitors are jumping to raise money for charity and entries have included a flying Dr Who tardis, a skate-boarding cow and even a chicken and mushroom pie.

K KNUCKER is a dialect word for a sort of water dragon, living in knuckerholes in various places in Sussex. The Knucker is said to have wings and “a giant, slithering sea serpent’s body, and cold, bold sea serpent’s eyes and a deadly, hissing sea serpent’s mouth”. According to legend the most famous Knucker lived at Lyminster. Apparently it caused a lot of trouble, consuming local livestock and even villagers, and so it was decided to slay the monster. A number of different legends recount how this was done.

L LARDY JOHNS are a traditional Sussex product that doesn’t seem to exist any longer. The following recipe is included in a collection of traditional recipes by Margaret Samuelson, published in 1937 comes from a book called “Sussex Recipe Book with a few Excursions into Kent”: “Quarter pound flour, 2oz lard, 3/4 teaspoonful baking powder, 2 teaspoons sugar and a sprinkling of currants. Rub all together in your hands, and add enough water to make a stiff paste. Cut the paste into squares and bake for about 10 minutes.”

M This summer marks 50 years since the legendary reggae performer Bob MARLEY performed his first ever UK gig in July 1972, supporting Johnny Nash at the De La Warr Pavilion, Bexhill-on- Sea. The concert was presented in conjunction with Bexhill Lions, raising funds for Glyne Gap School.

N In 1896 Alfriston Clergy House, an early 15th century Wealden hall-house in East Sussex,,became the first building to be saved forever for the nation by the NATIONAL TRUST. Originally rented out to tenants, and occupying an idyllic setting with views across the River Cuckmere, the house and gardens were opened as a visitor attraction in 1977.

O “Of a score of good things found outside heaven The land of Sussex was granted seven The choicest of those I often feel Is the OILY, glutinous Pulborough eel.” So begins the anonymous rhyme extolling the culinary virtues of Sussex, citing the Pulborough eel above trout and even lobster. The location of Pulborough offers distinct advantages for freshwater fishing, with the rivers Arun and Rother meeting just to the south west of the town. The Arun is famed for its fast flow, keeping the waters there clean and healthy for fish.

P In 1912 Charles Dawson claimed that he had found the skull of a hominid (early human) in a gravel pit in Piltdown, East Sussex. The skull was dated at 500,000 years old and was claimed to be the oldest human remains found in Britain. It was not until 1953 that “PILTDOWN MAN” was discovered to be a fake, combining parts of the skull of an orang-utan with a modern human!

Q On 31 May 1979, after eight years of construction, QUEEN ELIZABETH II opened Brighton Marina. Covering over 127 acres, the complex is the largest marina in Europe. It was originally the idea of a garage proprietor, Henry Cohen, in 1963. After a public inquiry, a town poll and two town meetings, Taylor Woodrow began work on it in March 1971. Today the marina boasts amongst other attractions a 2,200 seat multiplex cinema, a supermarket and a pub, as well as 1,500 boat moorings and a small fishing fleet.

R After the Norman conquest, William I divided Sussex into five divisions known as “RAPES” (which in turn were based on existing Saxon divisions) and allocated each one to five of his most trusted barons. Each Rape ran from the coast to the county’s northern boundary. They were centred on Arundel (which included Pulborough), Bramber, Lewes, Pevensey and Hastings. The Rape of Arundel was later divided into two centred on Arundel and Chichester.

S In 1786 Charles SHIPPAM opened a grocery shop in Chichester. Over the following decades the Shippam family steadily increased the manufacturing side of their business, producing pastes, sandwich spreads and soups, as well as canned and jarred meats. They were one of the earliest preservers of meat and fish products. They became a household word in the 1950s, when almost everyone came home to “Shippam’s for Tea”. The family sold the business in 1974.

T Izaak Walton’s book “The “Compleat Angler”, first published in 1653, devotes a whole chapter to “observations of the nature and breeding of the TROUT and how to fish for him. He observes that “Sussex doth boast of several fish” including “Amerly Trout”, which went on to feature as one of the “Seven Good Things of Sussex” as Amberley Trout.

U UCKFIELD was first recorded as 'Uckefeld' in 1220, an Anglo-Saxon place name meaning and (“feld”) belonging to a man named Ucca. V Located between haywards heath and Balcombe, the Ouse Valley (or Balcombe)

V VIADUCT was built in 1838 to carry the London to Brighton railway line over the River Ouse in Sussex. Known for its ornate design the structure has been described as “probably the most elegant viaduct in Britain”. It is now an Instagram hotspot for visitors.
W Once one of the busiest ports in the country,

W WINCHELSEA was not originally built atop Iham Hill where it now stands. It was created by Edward I in 1288 as a replacement for Old Winchelsea, which was completely destroyed and its site washed away by a great storm in 1287.

X Y Opened in 1910, the Duke of YORK'S Picture House claims to be the oldest purpose-built cinema in continuous use in the UK. Occupying a central location in Brighton, just off London Road, it is a local landmark, easily identifiable by the kicking legs!

Z Widely regarded as the best small ZOO in the country Drusillas Park in Alfriston, East Sussex, is home to over 100 exotic animals including sloths, meerkats, monkeys, penguins, red pandas and giant anteaters.

For hundreds of years water for drinking and everyday use was supplied by wells, springs and streams. However, following the Industrial Revolution, with unprecedented numbers of people flocking into the towns and cities, and the resultant increase in water-borne diseases such as typhoid and cholera, authorities began to look at providing reliable and potable water supplies.

By the end of the nineteenth century most British towns and cities had piped water supplies but the situation was very different in the countryside. Developing the infrastructure to bring piped water to rural communities was likely to prove to be expensive and since much of the cost was eventually going to fall on these communities such schemes were generally unpopular.

Pulborough was no exception. It had plentiful supplies of water so, when in 1910 the local authority, Thakeham Rural District Council (RDC), proposed a joint scheme with Storrington, this was rejected emphatically. There was then a hiatus of some twelve years, when the local authority, under pressure from the Ministry of Health, again raised the issue. Once again this was resisted by the local community, with one councillor stating that a “water supply was not wanted now, and there would be very few people who would welcome it” and another observing “people live long in Pulborough”.

The Ministry continued to press the issue and the local community continued to resist, extolling the virtues of Pulborough and the longevity of its inhabitants, pointing out the ages of people being interred in the graveyard. However, the Ministry eventually brought the matter to a head by announcing that a Public Inquiry was to be held, at the Railway Hotel, on 3rd March 1927.

Thakeham RDC proposed a scheme which, it said, was going to cost £12,600. To support the case it provided evidence that samples had been taken from 15 wells in the parish and in 12 of these the water had been found to be unfit for drinking purposes and in several of these, the water was found to be very badly polluted. The council suggested acquiring a site at Broomers Hill, where a borehole was to be sunk and a reservoir constructed.
The inspector accepted the council’s scheme but thought the site should be at Upper Nash, Nutbourne rather than Broomers Hill. On the strength of this, the council acquired a site and preliminary works began. However, following a report from a geologist, they decided that a site on Nutbourne Common should be used for the borehole instead.

Preliminary borings took place throughout 1928 and the resultant water was found to be of an acceptable quality. The cost of supplying water to Pulborough was estimated at £11,300 and this was going to involve laying six and a quarter miles of mains.

In 1929, it was decided that the reservoir at Upper Nash could be dispensed with. The Ministry approved the scheme in March 1929 and work to provide the infrastructure commenced, culminating in Lord Leconfield opening the water works on Thursday 3rd March 1932.

Accordingly, it took over twenty years, from when it was first mooted, to provide Pulborough with a piped water supply. The water works at Nutbourne stayed open until the 1970s, and the building then lay derelict for over three decades, until it was transformed into a dwelling house in 2010, when it was the subject of an episode in the BBC series Restoration Home. It is now known as Studio Fold and is used as self-catering accommodation

Lower Street is Pulborough’s main street and is almost a mile long. At the western end it starts at Swan Corner at the bottom of Church Hill on the A29, and at the eastern end it finishes at Mare Hill, just beyond the present United Reformed Church. Formerly known as Pot or Pott Street, it forms part of the A283, the main route from Milford to Shoreham via Petworth, Stopham, Storrington, Washington and Steyning. It lies to the north of the River Arun and runs nearly parallel to it. The main commercial centre of the village started to move down here from the area around St Mary’s Church (Upper Street) in late Mediaeval times.

The walk starts at Swan Corner, outside No1 Lower Street. This area is known as Swan Corner after the Swan Hotel which stood on the site, to the south west of the roundabout, for over 200 years before it was demolished and redeveloped at the beginning of this century. The hotel is shown here in the centre of the picture.

No 1 Lower Street, now a house, was built in the 18th century. Formerly an inn known as the Running Horse, it became a chemist’s shop in 1875. For over 100 years the business was run by three generations of the Corden family, until it moved to the site now occupied by the Pulborough Medical Group, off London Road (next to Tesco), in the early part of this century.

Continuing along the south side of Lower Street, the next property to be encountered is a single storey commercial building. This property was built in the 1960s on the site of what was formerly Stilwell’s bakery until the 1950s.

Looking across the mini-roundabout to the north west you will see a row of three timber-framed cottages, known as Saddlers, Horncroft and Old Timbers. The building (pictured here on the left) was originally a farmhouse and dates back to the sixteenth century. The chimney breast at the southern end of the building is thought to date from Tudor times. Saddlers gets its name from the saddler’s and harness maker’s business which operated from here in the nineteenth century.

To the north east of the roundabout is a modern bungalow, built on the site of a wooden structure which was known as the Coffee Tavern and Reading Room. At the end of the nineteenth century this was one of the social centres of the village, but it was closed down by the Rector around 1905, when he discovered that men were playing cards there for money.

Continuing along the south side of Lower Street you arrive at Templemead, a fine Georgian house. From 1789 until 1850 it was occupied by three generations of doctors, the Martins. The middle one, Dr Peter Martin (1786-1860) was a surgeon and a well-known geologist. His father, also Dr Peter Martin, built a small Water Pavilion in the form of a Doric Temple near the bank of the Arun. This is probably why the house acquired the name ‘Templemead’ since before this date it is understood that it was known as ‘Puddle Wharf’.

Beyond Templemead is a boarded-up building, which has been constructed side-on to the road. Formerly a dairy, it is known as Waterside. To the rear of the building, but not publicly accessible, is a Grade II listed lime kiln (pictured here). There also used to be a wharf here, where chalk from Amberley could be off-loaded for use in the kiln.

Between Waterside and Willow Cottage to the east, there was formerly a lane running down to the river. This is thought to have led to a wooden bridge across the river, which is shown on a map of Sussex drawn up in 1724.

Willow Cottage, constructed from Hythe sandstone and Pulborough stone rubble and also Grade II listed, is a small 17th Century timber-framed building with steps outside leading to an upstairs room.

No 21 Lower Street is known as Malt House Cottage, and it too has been built side-on to the road. The original house, another Grade II listed building, was built in 1720 and, as the name suggests, malt was produced here, from barley, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Passing a modern bungalow, you come next to a row of six houses built in 1906. The last of these, no 39, was formerly known as Arun Bank. In the early part of the twentieth century, Harry Price, a well-known psychic researcher lived here. He wrote a number of books and is buried in Pulborough churchyard.

Looking across the road you will see the East Glebe Field, formerly known as ‘Shepherd’s Meadow’, which is approached via a set of stone steps known as ‘Knight’s Steps’.

Continuing along the south side of the road you come to Allfrey’s Wharf, constructed on the site of a former builder’s yard owned by the Allfrey family. There used to be a lane here leading down to a wharf. The house on the corner, which dates from the 18th century, is known as Wharf House.

Further along is a development of flats and houses known as Skeyne Drive. It was built on the former site of a substantial Edwardian dwelling known as Skeyne House (shown left).
At no 57, the building now occupied by the estate agents Batchellor Monkhouse was formerly a purpose-built branch of Barclays Bank.

Passing the small parade of modern shops, this part of Lower Street is lined on both sides by buildings mainly dating from the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. Notable amongst these are: the Post Office Sorting Office, built in 1906 and for many years the home of Pulborough’s Post Office; no 30 (the pink house on the south side of the road), formerly known as Carpenters and before that an ale house known as the Carpenters Arms: the hill behind was known as Carpenters Hill and the field on the other side of the road was known as Carpenters Meadow; no 42 (two shop units with flats above), formerly a shop known as the Golden Boot – a boot and shoe shop – which got its name from the large gold-coloured wooden boot which was hung high on the outside wall and is now displayed in the Weald and Downland Museum in Singleton, West Sussex; and no.50, a Grade II listed building dating from the 17th century, which adjoins the property now occupied by Truffles Bakery.

To the east of the Post Office Sorting Office the timber-framed cottages at 73,75 and 79 Lower Street are known as the Wealden Cottages and were once a 15th century Wealden house. This area is known locally as Waterloo Square, named after the battle of that name in 1815.

Continuing onwards you reach Barn House Lane which now provides the main pedestrian access from the village to Pulborough Brooks.

To the east of Barn House Lane is Pulborough Stores, which occupies the ground floor of Carlyon House, built in the seventeenth century. There has been a convenience store at this spot (pictured right) for well over a century.

The site now occupied by Chase House formerly housed the Arun Hotel. Until its redevelopment in the early part of this century, there had been a hotel on this site since the early part of the 16th century.

The timber-framed building occupied by Guy Leonard & Co, known as Pulborough House, dates from the 17th century and is Grade II listed. it was used as a clock-makers shop during the 19th and early part of the 20th century.

Retracing your steps and crossing the road at the pelican crossing, no 52, on the north side of Lower Street is a Grade II listed residential property dating from the 17th century.
Here to your left is a lane running up the hill. Known as Potts Lane, it leads up to the area formerly known as Pots Common and to the former village school.

To your right is the butcher’s shop currently occupied by M J Suter. This is a former farm building, dating from the 17th century. You can still see the door to the hay loft on the eastern side. There has been a butcher’s shop on this site for over a century.

Proceeding eastwards, past the Flower Shop at no 56, you will come to London House, currently occupied by Hennings Wine Merchants. This is a fine Georgian Grade II listed property, which has housed various businesses since the 19th century, including Oliver Brothers Grocery and Drapery business.

No 60 Lower Street is a good example of the Art Deco style of architecture, dating from the 1920s and 30s. No 62 is a Grade II listed property dating from the early 19th century and formerly occupied by Lloyds Bank.

Willmer’s of Pulborough, at no 64, has been a family business since 1876. Initially it sold sheet music, gramophone records and musical instruments, whilst a gentleman’s hairdressing business operated from the rear of the premises.

Beyond Willmer’s is Walnut Tree House, another fine Grade II listed Georgian building, built into the hillside. It is named after the walnut tree that once stood in the garden.
Nos 68 and 68a Lower Street are a pair of Grade II listed eighteenth century cottages next to a footpath, Monkey Hill. This is an example of a “twitten”, an old Sussex dialectical word for a footpath, probably deriving its name from a Monkey Puzzle tree which once stood in the garden of Orange Tree Cottage, which is accessed from Rectory Lane to the north.

Crossing back to the south side of the road at this point and walking back towards the start of the walk, you reach a terrace of 17th century cottages, nos 103-111 Lower Street. Nos 103-107 have been much altered over the years but nos 109-111 still retain some of their original features, including slab roofs of Horsham stone. They are Grade II listed.

Next to 103 is a driveway, down which can be glimpsed the Moncrieff Barn. This is a Grade II listed 18th century building, faced with tarred weather-boarding on a brick base.

Passing the 20th century development of Kingfisher Court you reach the last property on this walk, the Oddfellows Arms. This Grade II listed building was originally a farmhouse and parts possibly originate from the 15th century. As was common with many farmhouses in the 16th – 18th centuries, the farmer is likely to have brewed beer and provided sustenance and overnight accommodation to passing drovers.

Your walk ends here, so why not pop into the Oddfellows for some well-earned refreshment.

The Romans built Stane Street, from Chichester Harbour to Pulborough, shortly after their arrival. It is a matter of some debate as to where the Romans actually crossed the River Arun and whether Stane Street continued up what is now Church Hill.

Following the departure of the Romans, in the 5th century, the fortunes of the road fluctuated along with those of the river crossing. Its role diminished to a drove road to Wealden pastures in Saxon times. After the coming of the Normans, in 1066, the development of both London and Arundel required a good road link, and traffic used Stane Street as far south as the bottom of Codmore Hill. There it bore left along Broomershill Lane and went on to Wickford Bridge, Wiggonholt, and eventually up to Rackham Bank to North Stoke, where the River Arun was forded, and on to Arundel.

Pulborough remained bypassed when a bridge was built at Houghton in the early 1440s which diverted the traffic from Rackham to Arundel Park via Amberley.

Church Hill remained a local thoroughfare up to the middle of the eighteenth century and the onset of the turnpikes. Prior to the introduction of turnpikes, the maintenance of roads had been the responsibility of the parishes through which they passed and consequently their condition was generally very poor! Turnpikes were created by Acts of Parliament, which placed specified routes in the hands of trustees, who were responsible for maintaining the road and could charge tolls to travellers who used them.

Church Hill formed part of a turnpike linking Guildford to Arundel, via Newbridge, Adversane and Pulborough, which was created in 1757. Works were carried out to lower the gradient of Church Hill, at this time, including the construction of a brick wall to protect the base of the Old House. The Rev. John Austin, who was the Rector of St. Mary's, put local men to work to lower the gradient still further in 1830, when there was great unemployment after the Napoleonic Wars, and a series of disastrous harvests following the volcanic eruption of Mount Tambora on the island of Sumbawa in present-day Indonesia.

The road became more popular following the construction of the old Swan Bridge across the River Arun in 1785, and prior to the coming of the railway in 1859 a regular coach service ascended Church Hill on its way to London, via Billingshurst, when the horses would stop to take a breather at the Chequers Inn (which was then on the western side of the road) at the top of the hill.

In the first decade of the twentieth century, Church Hill was described as a poor road, with no pavement and the banks and trees coming right down to the road and some would say, there have only been marginal improvements since!

Finally, and to demonstrate that the current landslip is by no means a unique phenomenon, on a map of 1820, there was a cottage, called Woodyears three quarters of the way up the hill, on the eastern side, and an old account relates: “A cottage formerly stood here, in a rough state. The ground having fallen into the High Roadway”!

The river at certain times is fordable, usually on the ebbing tide, and evidence of a ford was found during repair work to Swan Bridge in 1829. However, such a crossing was likely to have proved to be perilous and, in prehistoric times, recourse would most likely have been to boats.

The arrival of the Romans in Britain, in 43AD, heralded a flurry of road construction. This included the construction of Stane Street, firstly from Dell Quay, which is just to the south of Chichester, to Pulborough, and then at a later date onwards to London Bridge.

It seems highly improbable that such an advanced civilisation as the Romans would not have been able to bridge the river at Pulborough. Indeed, a few miles further north, along Stane Street, at Alfoldean (just before the junction of the A29 and the A281), the remains of a Roman bridge across the Arun can still be seen under the current bridge.

There is however, no evidence as to where Pulborough’s bridge might have been. The River Arun has the second fastest current in the whole country and is tidal for three miles upstream from Swan Bridge, and this, combined with frequent flooding, is likely to have washed away any traces centuries ago.

During medieval times, the north-south route from London by-passed Pulborough and the Arun was not bridged until it passed through Houghton, near Amberley, and a stone bridge was not constructed in Pulborough village until 1785, when the old Swan Bridge was built.
There is evidence that there was an earlier, wooden, bridge across the river. This was located just to the east of Swan Bridge, and was accessed via a lane leading down to the river from Lower Street, next to the site now occupied by Willow Cottage. This was shown on a map of Sussex, drawn up in 1724 by Richard Budgen, and the remains of a few posts and piles were still visible in 1953.

Apart from the bridge constructed in 1859 to take the railway across the river, the only other bridge in Pulborough village was located just to the west of Railway Cottages, on Stopham Road, and was known as Clements Bridge. This was never a public highway but was merely a crossing over the river purportedly to allow cattle to reach the meadows on the other side.

There is, however, another, more devious theory regarding the purpose behind this bridge’s construction. Clements Bridge had low arches, meaning that the larger barges using the Wey Arun Navigation were unable to pass under it. Instead they were forced to use the Hardham Tunnel, which was opened in 1795, and they were obliged to pay tolls to the canal company which, it was rumoured, had paid for this bridge to be built!

The remains of Clements Bridge were eventually swept away by flood waters in 1968.
Consequently, prior to 1700, it seems the only way of crossing the River Arun from Pulborough village was by ferry.

A ferry at Pulborough is mentioned as existing in the 13th century in the Wiston Manor Rolls and, in 1350, a ferry is listed as being in the ownership of the Lord of the Manor, Sir Henry Husse.

There is evidence that there may have been two ferries at Pulborough. In 1636 the Earl of Arundel’s water bailiff described a ferry at Pulborough, on the route from Arundel to Dorking. He located this ferry as being upstream from “the Ferry Weare”. The buildings on the south side of Station Road were constructed on a field, which was known as the Ferry Mead, a name which remains in use to this day. The second ferry is thought to have been located at what was later to become the site of the wooden bridge referred to earlier.

Following its construction in 1785, the old stone bridge at Swan Corner was the main crossing point at Pulborough for over 150 years. In 1936, with the continuing growth of traffic, West Sussex County Council constructed the current road bridge and closed the old bridge to vehicles. The original intention was to demolish the old bridge but it was retained following a public outcry.